Japan surfing has well exceeded my expectations. And from what the locals have told me, it only gets better in the winter. Before moving to Japan I only had one outdoor sport on the mind: snowboarding. My true passion is snowboarding, but lately it has started to take a toll on my body. After a full day of riding pow through trees, hitting stumpy bonks, zip zingers and wally slashers my body feels old as I will be in a wheel chair soon from all the bodily abuse. Every time I get out of the water I feel refreshed and rejuvenated. Surfing uses every part of your body/mind to catch that unique wave that has traveled over thousands of miles for a ride which realistically last only a few seconds. But that few seconds are only but a simple blur as your mind is reacting to what is in front of you. Maybe thats why the Backcountry is so fun. Its always new and your not quite sure what's around the corner. Either way this might be a first for me this year. Do I surf or snowboard today? Surfing is practically free once you get past the $500-1000 wet or dry suit. While snowboarding will cost much more in Gas, lift tickets, food etc. Some how this year I might try to pull off both. Here are a few shots from the last couple of weeks in surfing.
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